Kitano Tenmangu

History

Kitano Tenmangu enshrines Sugawara no Michizane and is one of two head shrines of the roughly 12,000 Tenmangu and Tenjin shrines across Japan (the other being Dazaifu Tenmangu). After Michizane’s death, a series of misfortunes in the capital was attributed to his vengeful spirit, and the shrine was founded in 947 to pacify his soul. Because Michizane had been a brilliant scholar, he later came to be worshipped nationwide as “Tenjin-sama,” the god of learning.

In 1004, Emperor Ichijo paid the first imperial visit to Kitano Shrine, and the court bestowed on it the title “Kitano Tenman Tenjin.” From then on, the shrine received visits from successive emperors as a guardian of the capital and protector of the nation, and it established its standing as a place of deep veneration among the imperial court and nobility. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi held the grand “Kitano Grand Tea Gathering” on the shrine grounds, a testament to the esteem in which it was held by the era’s most powerful figures.

Highlights

About 1,500 plum trees grow on the grounds, and the shrine is well known as a place to view plum blossoms, which Michizane himself loved. On the 25th of every month, the “Tenjin Market” is held in commemoration of Michizane’s birth and death, drawing crowds to its many stalls. The Honden, a National Treasure, preserves the opulent architectural style of the Momoyama period to this day.

Visiting Tips

Several statues of “nade-ushi” (stroking oxen), believed to be messengers of Michizane, stand throughout the grounds; tradition holds that stroking the same part of the statue as an ailment on your own body will bring healing. During exam season, the shrine fills with students praying for success.

Annual Festivals

• Baika Festival (February 25): A festival with roughly 900 years of history, held on the anniversary of Michizane’s death, which also features an outdoor tea ceremony, the “Baika-sai Nodate Ogochakai,” hosted by the geiko and maiko of the Kamishichiken geisha district.
• Zuiki Festival (October 1–5): An autumn harvest thanksgiving festival in which a portable shrine roofed with taro stems (zuiki), vegetables, and grains parades through the parish.
• Tenjin Market (Hatsu Tenjin and monthly Tenjin Market) (25th of every month): A festival day with many stalls set up on the grounds in commemoration of Michizane’s birth and death; the “Hatsu Tenjin” market on January 25 is especially crowded.

Nearby Food & Sightseeing

Long-established shops selling sweets associated with Kitano Tenmangu, such as Chogoro-mochi, line the area around the approach. Kinkaku-ji is also relatively close by, making it a popular spot to combine with sightseeing.

• Epoke Cafe: A cozy café about 5 minutes’ walk from Kitano-Hakubaicho Station, with swing seats and kotatsu seating for a relaxed atmosphere.
• Kitano Labo: A confiture and syrup specialty shop near the shrine grounds, making its products from fruit sourced directly from farms across Japan.
• Hyde & Away: A fruit tart specialty shop in Kitano-Hakubaicho, popular for its tarts made with domestic fruit.